"Hey! Where Did My Tree Go?!"

Durrës

In David's work, he collaborates with prosecutors, police officers, and judges in seven different regions throughout Albania.  While Albania is about the same size as Kentucky or Maryland, it could take well over 15 hours to get from the northern tip to the southern tip of the country due to challenging road conditions and mountainous terrain.  Our first trip within Albania was about 45 minutes west of Tirana to the port city of Durrës, which dates back to 627 BCE.

Map from:  http://www.lonelyplanet.com/maps/europe/albania/ 

While David was in meetings, I had espresso and gelato with a man who was a driver for government officials during communist times. He indicated that, as a driver during that era, he had much more freedom than other Albanian citizens. In the 1960s, individually-owned vehicles were outlawed by communist dictator Hoxha. By the end of communism in 1991, there were only about 3000 vehicles in a country of 3 million people. The driver I met advised that he was allowed the privilege of driving himself when off duty, as well as his family, including for vacation. 

Non-drivers in Albania had very different vacations. He said that, during communist times, the government gave everyone a 1-week paid vacation.  If you lived in Tirana, for example, you would get on the train -- standing room only with some people hanging onto the outside --  and go to Durrës for your week off.  What is now a 45-minute car ride took around 2 hours via a slow train. Many Albanians still head to the beach in Durrës for vacation.  Now, most people have their own cars; the boardwalk in  Durrës has children's rides; and, generally, people are free.

In addition to the beach and boardwalk, people are also drawn to to visit the ancient amphitheater (think: miniature version of the Coliseum in Rome) in Durrës.  For many centuries, the citizens of Durrës searched for a Roman amphitheater rumored to have been built in their city around the 1st or 2nd century A.D. Finally, according to the guide at the amphitheater, around 1966, a Durresi citizen dug a hole to plant a tree.  He placed the tree in the hole and quickly exclaimed, "Hey! Where did my tree go?!"  The tree fell straight through.  

Archaeologists gradually began to uncover the legendary amphitheater.  It originally held around 18,000 spectators for performances and gladiators' contests through the 5th century.  In the 6th century, a chapel with mosaics (see below) was added.  And, the floor of the amphitheater was eventually used as a cemetery (not yet excavated) -- a fitting alternative considering the blood baths on the site.  

The guide also advised that, while Durrës has been destroyed by earthquakes 3 times, the amphitheater has not been destroyed because, knowing  Durrës was an active seismic area, the forward-thinking Roman architects placed bricks and stones in alternating layers to maximize structural stability.  Centuries later, when the site of the amphitheater was unknown, homes were built over it.  Once discovered, the communist government moved the residents to new land and began uncovering the theater.  As you can see from the photos, houses still remain.  The City of Durrës continues to uncover the amphitheater, bit by bit, and will eventually buy the surrounding homes from the remaining residents.

A Combination of English, A Few Albanian Words And A Lot Of Pantomime Can Get You What You Want

Cafe Culture

by Davidi

I looked nervously at the first group of Albanian prosecutors I addressed. "Any questions?" After what seemed like an eternity, a hand rose in the back.  "Do you have cafe culture in Kentucky?"

On a clear evening, it seems like 90% of Albania's adults are sitting at a table under an umbrella with a cup of coffee and a bottle of water. On an unclear evening, the percentage declines to 89%. Cafes line the streets in our neighborhood. The tables cover the sidewalks, and even spill out into the streets.  The sidewalks are left with only a narrow path, one person wide, for pedestrians.

The seats vary from molded plastic to padded benches with overstuffed pillows.   Servers, almost always young men, usually speak enough English that a combination of English, a few Albanian words and a lot of pantomime can get you what you want.  It helps that the choices are few. Most "cafes" serve only beverages. Gina and I have frequently entered places which look like restaurants, only to be told that there is no food.

Sidewalk cafes on Rruga Ismail Qemali

Albanians are not familiar with being in a hurry.  When you sit at a table, you sip your coffee (usually espresso) slowly.  The table is yours for as long as you wish to stay, perhaps all evening, and the waiter does not come by to see "if everything is all right." When the coffee is gone, the conversation lags and the people watching has become less interesting, you must plead for the check. (Cup of espresso: 80 cents.  Bottled water: $1 for a large.)  Then, if you are truly Albanian, you make your way to the cafe down the street.

60% of all businesses in Albania are places to eat, drink, and sleep. I think they have the basics covered.

David Sneezed And Two Armed Guards Showed Up At The Door

Five weeks ago, David and I moved to the Bllok, a neighborhood in downtown Tirana, Albania.  This neighborhood served as the residential area for the country's communist leaders from about 1945 through 1991.  This 3 block by 3 block area literally had a guarded fence around it during the communist era.  The home of the communist dictator, Albanian Enver Hoxha /Hoe juh'/, is still standing in the Bllok.

Since 1992, this neighborhood has become the quintessential European neighborhood with multiple cafés, restaurants, bakeries, fruit markets, and shops on every block.  And, in typical Balkan style, the neighborhood gets livelier and louder as evening approaches.  On any given weekend night at 9pm or so, you will see the cafés jam-packed with a youngish crowd drinking espresso in preparation for a night at the clubs.  We will do this one day...when we are finally rested.

For those of you who expressed concern about our safety in Albania....  Last night, after we turned on our security system, David sneezed and two armed guards from the embassy showed up at our apartment within minutes.  As you might have guessed, the glass break sensor is incredibly sensitive.  It WAS a loud sneeze though.  We do feel quite safe in our apartment.  Outside of our apartment, crossing the street and second-hand smoking are the biggest obstacles to safety and health.

We have been told that a typical Albanian dwelling is about 2-3 rooms with tile throughout.  The style of our furnished apartment is standard; we are very fortunate though to have  a 3-bedroom, 1.5 bath apartment.  Hope you will visit!

           

Guess what this is . . . the control panel for our shower!  The embassy requested that we have a bathtub vs. just a shower.  So, now we have a 5 star shower/tub with water jets for the back, the feet, and all around the tub.  Plus, it includes a radio, CD player, light, fan, sauna, and possibly bluetooth (we haven't quite figured that button out yet).  

The view from our kitchen window.  The mountains in the background are beautiful!