A Combination of English, A Few Albanian Words And A Lot Of Pantomime Can Get You What You Want

Cafe Culture

by Davidi

I looked nervously at the first group of Albanian prosecutors I addressed. "Any questions?" After what seemed like an eternity, a hand rose in the back.  "Do you have cafe culture in Kentucky?"

On a clear evening, it seems like 90% of Albania's adults are sitting at a table under an umbrella with a cup of coffee and a bottle of water. On an unclear evening, the percentage declines to 89%. Cafes line the streets in our neighborhood. The tables cover the sidewalks, and even spill out into the streets.  The sidewalks are left with only a narrow path, one person wide, for pedestrians.

The seats vary from molded plastic to padded benches with overstuffed pillows.   Servers, almost always young men, usually speak enough English that a combination of English, a few Albanian words and a lot of pantomime can get you what you want.  It helps that the choices are few. Most "cafes" serve only beverages. Gina and I have frequently entered places which look like restaurants, only to be told that there is no food.

Sidewalk cafes on Rruga Ismail Qemali

Albanians are not familiar with being in a hurry.  When you sit at a table, you sip your coffee (usually espresso) slowly.  The table is yours for as long as you wish to stay, perhaps all evening, and the waiter does not come by to see "if everything is all right." When the coffee is gone, the conversation lags and the people watching has become less interesting, you must plead for the check. (Cup of espresso: 80 cents.  Bottled water: $1 for a large.)  Then, if you are truly Albanian, you make your way to the cafe down the street.

60% of all businesses in Albania are places to eat, drink, and sleep. I think they have the basics covered.